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City’s first Michelin-star chef shuts restaurant

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From this week's Galway City Tribune

From this week's Galway City Tribune

City’s first Michelin-star chef shuts restaurant City’s first Michelin-star chef shuts restaurant

Galway’s first Michelin-star chef is to hang up his apron for now with the closure of his café, wine bar and restaurant in the heart of the medieval quarter.

Enda McEvoy and his wife Sinéad Meacle announced that they have closed Éan on Druid Lane with immediate effect, blaming spiralling costs and government apathy towards the hospitality industry.

The couple closed Loam on Fairgreen Road in 2022, citing overheads, difficulty sourcing staff and being presented with the chance to get out of a long-term lease.

Loam opened in November 2014 and received a Michelin star the next year. Mr McEvoy had earned his – and Galway’s – first Michelin star while working in Aniar Restaurant with JP McMahon in 2012.

In a post on Éan’s social media, the husband-and-wife team announced the decision to close after four years of trading “through one of the most gruelling times for the hospitality industry”. They had signed the lease for the building beside the Mick Lally Theatre a fortnight before the first lockdown.

“It is a heartbreaking decision to close our doors, but as we face a winter of continued increases in overheads, weather disruptions, and an apathy towards the hospitality sector from the government, we find ourselves with no choice but to cease operations

“Only those currently running a business — let alone a hospitality business in a post-pandemic world—can truly understand the pressures coming from all sides.”

They urge people to support local traders.

“Independent businesses in particular need your support now more than ever. They are the beating heart of towns and cities across the country. Use them or lose them.”

They thanked staff, suppliers and customers who supported them as they “manoeuvred through very turbulent seas, experiencing both incredible highs and lows”.

“We will forever be grateful for the kindness and support shown to us over the years, both at Loam and Éan. We will honestly miss serving the city.”

Éan, which had a bakery and served brunch Thursday to Sunday, transforming into a wine bar and restaurant five evenings a week, was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin guide, which denotes excellence in quality and value.

Loam was the first restaurant in Ireland to earn a three-star rating from the Sustainable Restaurant Association.

Celebrity chef Neven Maguire described the move as “so sad” in a “tough time”.

Lignum in Bullaun, Loughrea described the closure as a huge loss to Galway. “Your words resonate with a lot of small businesses in Ireland”.

Chef Jess Murphy from Kai on Sea Road remarked: “And what a mark you made on the city. Kudos guys.”

The Dough Bros, which has a celebrated pizzeria around the corner, said they had eaten there last Friday.

“All four of us said was the best meal we had in Galway in a long, long time. A big loss for Galway.”

Pictured: Closed: Éan on Druid Lane.

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