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Acclaimed chef Enda enjoys taste of success



Enda McEvoy and Christine Walsh in the kitchen at Loam. “There’s nothing here for the sake of it, and it’s the same with things on a plate. Don’t overdo it,” Enda says. Photo: Joe O'Shaughnessy.

Lifestyle – Judy Murphy meets chef Enda McEvoy whose Loam restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star for consistent excellence

Michelin-starred chef Enda McEvoy tends to take other people’s advice – even when it’s well-meaning – with a grain of salt.

“You wouldn’t want to be listening to people. You have to have an idea of what you want yourself, otherwise you’d be driven distracted,” says this quiet, focused man who has played a major role in Galway’s growing reputation as a food destination.

It’s just as well Enda has that philosophy, because otherwise he’d never have opened his city restaurant, Loam, in its current location on Fairgreen Road.

Although Loam is just a skip from Eyre Square its location is regarded as being off the beaten track – away from the busy Quay Street area. The first few months had their challenges, Enda says. But since he was awarded a Michelin star in September, footfall has been guaranteed.

This isn’t the Cavan man’s first Michelin star – he was Head Chef at Aniar Restaurant in 2012 when it won the accolade for his creative menus based totally on Irish produce.

But Enda doesn’t believe in resting on his laurels and shortly after that, he and his wife Sinéad decided to set up their own restaurant.

“Initially we were looking for a destination premises, with rooms, but that fell through,” he explains. So it was back to the drawing board. They explored various buildings around the city, “in the more traditional areas” but nothing was suitable.

Finally, they selected this premises, which had been designated ‘commercial’ in the City Development Plan. Changing its use “was a huge rigmarole” but they persevered as it was a very flexible space.

“There’s never a place that’d be ideal for what’s in your head, so you just have to roll with it,” he says.

That’s what they did.

“The building will tell you what it’s capable of – the one thing it needed to have was an open kitchen because I like to know what’s happening on the floor.”

Enda is not a fan of “having people in the background making all these things to go through a door”. It results in “no real connection” between people cooking the food and those eating it.

“You have to make food for the customers and when people come here, their first contact is with a person who made food for them.”

He’s all for the idea of having the person who prepared the food deliver it to the table and answering questions that customers might have.

It’s an unorthodox approach, but “there’s no harm in looking at existing norms and asking questions”, he feels.

That’s his philosophy, not just when it comes to food, but living too. Enda grew up in Cavan where his family owned a supermarket and also grew vegetables for other shops. A respect for food and a strong work ethic were inherited from his parents and while he veered towards academia for a while, he loved working with his hands, and always felt that would be his true calling.

He was 17 the first time he worked in a kitchen – in Germany in 1996, as a kitchen porter.

“I enjoyed the process – being part of a machine that worked efficiently and where everyone has a function,” he recalls.

Enda knew about teamwork from his parents business, but “this was different”, he says of his German kitchen experience.

“In this business, the way you work is a short, intensive process. It’s repetitive and you have to get better and better. There’s a burst of energy and people work together silently – it’s almost like a performance.”

For more, read this week’s Connacht Tribune.


‘Positive response’ to plan for new Wolfe Tone walkway



From the Galway City Tribune – The submissions process in relation to the new pedestrian walkway to be put in place on the south side of Wolfe Tone Bridge has now closed.

The project – estimated to cost in the region of €1 million – is expected to start later this year once the Part 8 planning process – where the councillors will ultimately decide on whether to proceed – has been completed.

It will involve the provision of a 50-metre steel cantilever (no centre supports) walkway on the southern aspect of Wolfe Tone Bridge as well as a widening of the existing adjoining footpath.

A feature of the proposal will be the provision of a new signalised ‘rainbow pride’ pedestrian crossing on the eastern approach to the bridge.

According to Galway City Council Senior Engineer, Uinsinn Finn, the new pedestrian bridge crossing will be a major positive development in terms of facilitating the increasing numbers of people walking from the city centre towards the Claddagh/West area of the city.

“There has been a very positive response to the proposal for the provision of this extra pedestrian facility which will complement a similar walkway on the northern side of the bridge.

“The new signalised rainbow pride crossing on the eastern side of the bridge will also make it safer and improve access for pedestrians using this route,” said Mr Finn.

He added that the proposal would probably be coming up for approval at the September meeting of the City Council with plans for the new structure to begin shortly after.

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Galway Greenway plan moves up a gear



The design phase of the Galway to Oughterard Greenway will begin in 2023, Galway County Council has confirmed.

Several potential routes are now ‘on the table’ – with the information website for the project now ‘gone live’ until mid-July – to enable all interested parties to look at the options and make submissions.

David Joyce, Engineer with Aecom Consultants, said that the preferred route for the greenway was likely to emerge in the first quarter of 2023 followed by the design phase later in the year.

He told Conamara area councillors at a meeting that a cycle track would be part of the greenway – three metres wide for most of the route widening to five metres closer to the city.

Initially, the potential routes would have 200 metre corridors to ‘capture everything’, said Mr Joyce, but that width would be reduced in the final preferred option.

In response to queries from a number of councillors, he said that at least two to three of the options did not envisage using the current N59 roadway for the greenway.

“There will be extensive face-to-face consultations with the public before any decision on the final preferred route,” said Mr Joyce.

County Councillor Noel Thomas (FF) said that in his view it would be better if the greenway did not use the existing roads network while Cllr Eileen Mannion (FG) asked about the necessity for 200-metre-wide corridor options.

Cllr Tom Welby (Ind.) said that the Clifden to Oughterard section of the greenway would be using the old railway line route which only involved a corridor width of about 50 metres.

In the city, Cllr Eddie Hoare (FG) said the project would serve as a route for cyclists and also as a tourist attraction.

“The delivery of the Conamara to Galway Greenway will bring so many benefits to Galway City and County. This week, this project moved a step closer and I hope there is progressive engagement with all stakeholders in the coming months.

“URDF (Urban Regeneration and Development Fund) funding was received last year for the development of a bridge along the pillars of the old Clifden Railway line at Woodquay. This is the proposed landing point for the Greenway coming into Galway city.

“This project can serve as both an active travel route for cyclists and also a major tourist attraction for visitors and I just hope it can progress and be delivered in the coming years,” said Cllr Hoare.

A total of €11 million in URDF funding was allocated last year for a pedestrian and cycle bridge across the River Corrib – along the buttresses for the old Clifden railway line, which is regarded as forming an integral part of the city’s cycle network.

(Image: an architect’s impression of how that cycle and walkway over the Corrib would look).

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Public order offences on the rise in Galway



From the Galway City Tribune – Galway is headed in the wrong direction unless anti-social behaviour and public order problems are sorted, a meeting of the Galway City Joint Policing Committee has been told.

Former mayor Mike Crowe said: “There are too many people begging; there are too many people sleeping rough; and there are too many people drinking on the corner of the streets, organised drinking.”

The Fianna Fáil councillor said he was not surprised that the official Garda crime report had confirmed that public order offences detected in the first five months of this year were up by 26%.

That represented 46 additional cases compared with last year, bringing the total number of public order offences in the first five months of 2022 in Galway City to 225.

“It needs to be addressed; I think Galway is on a precipice,” he said.

Cllr Crowe said that the City Council, through various housing charities, had provided ample resources to ensure that homeless people were accommodated.

“There is no need to be sleeping rough,” he said. He added there was no need for tents to be erected along the city’s main shopping thoroughfare by rough sleepers.

Another former mayor, Cllr Frank Fahy (FG) agreed and suggested that some people who were sleeping rough were not homeless as all, and they were involved in ‘organised begging’. He claimed that many of those sleeping rough ‘were all gone off the streets by 3am and 4am’ when revellers have gone home. “They’re making a living at it [begging]”, he said.

Chair of the JPC, Cllr Níall McNelis (Lab) said if anyone had evidence that begging was being carried out by an organised gang then they needed to supply that information to Gardaí.

Garda Chief Superintendent Tom Curley agreed and said that evidence not rumour was needed in order to bring prosecutions and secure convictions.

Cllr Crowe and Cllr Fahy said the Garda presence at Eyre Square, 24-hours every day, was having a positive impact, and Chief Supt Curley said public order offences have reduced in the city centre since that additional resource was deployed to the Square.

Cllr Fahy, however, said that “public drinking and public urination” remained a problem.

Cllr Crowe welcomed a commitment from Superintendent Damien Flanagan, who was now responsible for policing Galway City, that a “permanent presence of Gardaí is in place in Eyre Square” and would remain there.

Supt Flanagan clarified that that meant a Garda or Gardaí would be in Eyre Square “at all times”.

He also said he was liaising with Galway City Council on some design issues in Eyre Square that could be changed to deter anti-social behaviour and discourage people from congregating there for drinking.

Chief Supt Curley said that he would prefer to use the Gardaí elsewhere but he acknowledged that a 24/7 Garda presence in Eyre Square was working, and would be deemed a success if it saved even one victim from suffering a serious assault.

There were 17 offences of ‘begging’ detected in the first five months of the year, down 29%.

Cllr Niall Murphy (Green) said begging in itself was “not a crime”, it was “a failure of society”.

The offence relates to people who are causing an obstruction or nuisance while begging; begging beside an ATM is also an offence.

The Galway City Tribune is in shops every Friday, or to buy online HERE

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